Massimo Biloni is a recognized expert in the rice sector who is dedicated both to the genetic selection of varieties, which he carries out as a leader of Italian Rice Experiment Station (IRES) as well as promoting rice culture. To this end, along with other enthusiasts of rice in innovative cuisine, he has created AquaVerdeRiso. This is a company founded in 2015 that focuses specifically on disseminating information about rice, creating sensory tests for rice, and training rice sommeliers. Furthermore, in 2019, he was elected president of the Strada Vercellese di Riso di Qualità Association and is the co-author of Il Libro del Riso Italiano.

• There are many varieties of rice in Italy, is there much difference between them?

According to data from the Ente Nazionale Risi, around 150 varieties of rice are cultivated in Italy, but only a few are spread over large areas.

The varieties grown in Italy today are very different from each other: we go from rice with a large grain for risotto, to round rice for sushi or rice cakes, aromatic basmati-type rice, ribe-type rice for parboiling, long grain rice (Lungo B) for export, or red and black pigmented rice for special markets.

•  What are the most typical varieties for Italian cuisine?

Rice for Risotto is now classified by the new rice law (Legislative Decree 131/2017) into traditional Italian rices and includes Carnaroli, Arborio, Roma, Baldo, S.Andrea, Vialone Nano, Ribe and all new rice with similar grain.

Today, however, when we talk about Italian cuisine, we're talking about an evolving world. Now in my area, young people frequent pizzerias as much as sushi restaurants. This has led to an increase in rice consumption, not affecting traditional Italian varieties but rather the new Italian varieties created in the last 15 years specifically for this market.

• Are there combinations of rice varieties and seasonings that are more or less successful?

There are varieties that are more consistent and with grains that are always very loose, such as Carnaroli and Vialone Nano.

These types of varieties are better suited for making certain complex risottos that require a certain firmness in the grains. For a creamier, smoother risotto or for other dishes like arancini, with rice and other additions, it would be better to use varieties with lower amylose content, such as Arborio, Roma, and Baldo.

For a good rice salad, a Ribey rice or a long-grain aromatic rice like Apollo would be more suitable. On the other hand, for a rice stew, a more rounded grain rice would be more appropriate.

• Does the area where rice is grown influence its quality? If so, how?

The growing area affects the quality of the rice produced. In fact, in a colder area with more clayey soils, such as northern Piedmont, the rice grain is smaller and more compact than that obtained with the same variety grown in Sardinia or Ferrara.

If this is combined with the fact that there are varieties that are better adapted to certain climates and certain soils, it is possible to understand how the variety-territory link, what in wine is called in French “terroir”, is also important in rice.

•  What are the latest developments in the rice sector for creative cooking??

The most recent innovations are black and red pigmented rice. These were introduced in Italy in 1997 as Venere aromatic black rice. Today, the landscape of specialty rice varieties is very complex and includes rice of various shapes and lengths, with different aromas and textures.

•  An expert of your caliber cannot forget the question: What is your favorite rice dish?

In winter, I make "panissa," a risotto typical of Vercelli's cuisine. In summer, I have a rice salad with Baldo rice. I also like to boil aromatic rice from time to time and simply season it with good extra virgin olive oil and Parmesan cheese: simple and delicious.